¶ 3D Labs OEM Printer “HTX” v2
¶ Appearance
- Black paint
- Please use a semi-gloss powder coat that is more resistant to scratches than Frosted Black
¶ General Requirements
- Dual drive extruder
- Same removable extruder as on our first version
- Custom 3DL logo
- No filament, do not need.
- Please install 6mm thick top and front window. Must be PC (Polycarbonate) material. Please buy these in China.
- No bed, we will install our own.
- Need acrylic door panels for side doors (where filament goes)
- Thicker wire for ground wire
- 20A 110 power cable / inlet
- X-axis belt is very hard to tighten for customer. Can we add a screw to tighten like on peek-300?
- Install Vibra-Tite on all screws in machine except on parts that customer needs to unscrew for maintenance (Extruder box, removing hotends, etc). We will supply this and send it.
- Must not use metal brackets to secure gantry during shipping (last time nearly all our printers broke in shipping and had to replace rails) Please use a softer bracket with rubber and strong styrofoam to lock head in place during shipping. This caused us slow sales and had to do a lot of repairs.
- Please don't use sticky adhesive wire guides, only screw down.
- Make sure the axis moves smoothly, no noises or rails gridning. We had to fix several machines in our last order with bad rail alignment and non-concentric pulley.
- Use PEEK-300 motors.
- Use PEEK-300 high temp GT2 belts (EPDM rubber)
- Can we make a protective cover for the belts in these locations?
- Z-endstop on bottom of machine instead of top. We want to home to Z-max not Z-min.
- Please remove these holes from the design:
¶ Electronics
- Use 3D Labs “StarForge” motherboard not Creatbot
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- Use new Creatbot power board
a) Board MUST have redundant relay BEFORE SSR/SR mosfet.
b) If this cannot be added to new creatbot board, then use old board to achieve this.
This is important because if the machine is off, and the SSR/General SR chip fails in the ON position, the bed can heat out of control and cause a fire. With the relays, our motherboard can command the relays to turn off, like on our last OEM machine. - Install our power button. Must cut 22mm hole into chassis. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33055445497.html
- Install our fuse and fuse holder
- Network plug (must drill 24mm hole in chassis)
- Please apply Kafuter glue underneath connectors on removable hotend to make them stronger
- We need to mount our 7 inch bigtreetech PiTFT70 touch screen to the outside of the case. Can the designer create a metal mount for outside of the case?
- Install motion module on the side of the extruder
¶ Wiring
- Use our 3M crimps. We will supply blue version for 2.5mm wire, and red version for 1.5mm wire.
- Use 2.5mm size wiring for high-voltage side, and 1.5mm size wiring for low voltage side.
- Use heatshrink on crimps
- Make ribbon cable from our FEP cable and PET sleeve material
- Connect front USB port to 3D Labs Motherboard with adapter
- Connect the power switch to the mainboard
¶ Chassis
- Install insulation inside printer. We can find a chinese supplier and make cutting dies.
¶ Connectors
- Please use high temp XH2.54 connectors on all plugs: Heater cartridge, thermocouple, plugs inside extruder box, etc.
¶ Questions
- X-axis belt is very hard to tighten for customer. Can we add a screw to tighten like on peek-300?
- Can we make a protective cover for the belts in these locations?
- Can the designer create a metal mount for our touch screen outside of the case? (BigtreeTech PiTFT70, need slot for ribbon cable)
- Is it possible to put the electronics in the back and filament on the sides?